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Some days on the Big Island don't need a plan. You just point yourself at the Kohala Coast, let the morning go where it wants, and end it with your toes in the sand watching the sun drop into the Pacific. This was one of those days — Hāpuna Beach by day, Lava Lava Beach Club by sunset — and it's the kind of day I'd tell any 55-and-up traveler to build a trip around.
Morning at Hāpuna Beach
Hāpuna gets called one of the best white-sand beaches in the state, and the first time you see it you understand why. That long, soft crescent of sand, water in three shades of blue, and — if you're lucky like we were — dolphins jumping offshore while you're still setting up your spot. We had little fish nibbling at our feet in the shallows, which is either delightful or alarming depending on how you feel about little fish. (I voted delightful.)
A word about the sand: it is famously, gloriously fine. The kind that the wind picks up and redistributes everywhere — including, in our case, into our sandwiches. Crunchy bites. If you bring lunch, keep it zipped until you're ready, and maybe accept that a little Hāpuna is coming home with you no matter what.
One real-world note: the water clouded up by midday once the beach filled in and everyone's feet stirred the sand. If you want the clearest water for snorkeling or GoPro shots, go early.
🌊 Respect the Ocean: The Rip Current Talk
This is the part I won't gloss over. The lifeguard warned us that the tide was pulling snorkelers out — the kind of pull where you may not be able to swim back in.
Here's the rule that saves lives, so I'll say it plainly: if a rip current pulls you out, do NOT fight it straight back to shore. Go sideways. Swim parallel to the beach until you're out of the pull, then angle back in. If you get too tired, float on your back and wave for help. Stay close to shore, and always — always — listen to the lifeguards. They are watching the water you can't read.
As you explore the Kohala coast's black lava shoreline, keep an eye out for a low, sprawling shrub with glossy yellow-green leaves and small white flowers tucked right into the rock. This is naupaka kahakai (beach naupaka), one of the toughest native coastal plants on the island — it thrives in salt spray, wind, and bare lava where almost nothing else will grow.
Look closely at the flower and you'll notice something unusual: it appears to be only half a bloom, as if torn down the middle. Hawaiian legend tells of two lovers separated forever — one banished to the mountains, one to the sea. The beach naupaka you'll see here and its upland cousin, naupaka kuahiwi (mountain naupaka), each bloom only half a flower. Only when the two are brought back together do they form a whole.
A beautiful little detail to look for as you walk the shore — here's the full story behind the half-flower.
💡 Quick Tip: Mineral Sunscreen Without the Ghost Face
Hawaii requires reef-safe mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide only — no oxybenzone or octinoxate), and I get it, the white cast is real. If you hate the ghost-face look as much as I do, look for a tinted mineral formula like ThinkDaily Tinted Mineral Sunscreen — the iron oxides blend into your skin tone while the zinc still does the actual sun-blocking. For body coverage, Badger Clear Zinc rubs in more evenly than most.
It's still going to feel a little different than your regular sunscreen — that's just mineral formulas — but these come the closest to invisible while keeping you legal (and reef-friendly) on island.
Sunset at Lava Lava Beach Club
After a beach day, the only correct way to end it is dinner with your feet actually in the sand — and that's Lava Lava Beach Club in Waikoloa. Tiki torches, tropical drinks, a beachfront table, and the whole sky going gold and pink over the water.
If you go, book ahead and request a beachfront / oceanside table for sunset — that's the whole point, and the good tables go fast. We timed it for golden hour and just sat there as the light did its thing. It's the same feeling I chase on every trip: that warm, slow, we-earned-this hour. (You can see exactly what I mean in the reel below.)
If you want to make it a full day
Pair Hāpuna with a Kohala Coast tour or sunset cruise to round out the day on the water.
Plan your own Kohala Coast day
Hāpuna in the morning, Lava Lava at sunset — that's a day you'll still be talking about months later. For more honest, boots-on-the-ground Big Island guides, explore the rest of our Hawaii posts and grab our Big Island travel guide on Etsy.
🌺 Plan The Magic Guides
Every day mapped out for the easiest flow — top snorkel spots ranked, a full food & sunset guide, volcano timing, turtle beaches, drive times, and a printable cheat sheet.
Skip the Planning — Get the Guide →🗺️ Instant PDF download · Print-at-home · US Letter
Have you been to Hāpuna or Lava Lava? Tell me your favorite Kohala Coast spot in the comments — I'm always adding to the list. 🌅